In the ballroom of London’s recently revamped Savoy hotel, Erdem Moralioglu showed his Summer 2012 collection this afternoon. I wondered as the first eight looks – all china blue floral prints or delicate brocade - came down the catwalk, whether the room, with it’s powder blue walls and intricate snow white plasterwork was the inspiration for the collection, or whether the PR team had just managed to source the perfect show location?
The colour palette, while mainly on the blue spectrum, picked up a pace to include, pale pale lilacs, primrose yellows, snowy whites and splashes of red. While the silhouettes had a feel of the 1950’s; full skirted dresses with top halves that skimmed the body and were cut to reveal bare shoulders, or knee length printed pencil skirts worn with long sleeved shirts in a contrasting patterns. Lace - both heavy and delicate – played supporting role to Erdem’s famously beautiful prints on everything from day dresses, skirts and trench coats to gowns and gloves.
With this collection Erdem revisited familiar themes from seasons past; feminine silhouettes, ravishing prints and neat boyish shirts buttoned to the chin. Undeniably beautiful, these variations-on-a-theme clothes will no doubt please his loyal customers as they won’t render past purchases dated, but for the press, hungry for a new story, the collection somewhat failed to deliver the fashion high we have come to expect of an Erdem collection.
- Siobhan Mallen