'Some designers ask themselves if it is too much? I always think: is it enough?' said Donatella Versace backstage before her show. Neatly put: this is never a name associated with the shy and retiring and this latest offering was no exception. While skirt lengths so far this season have mainly fallen somewhere between the knee and the ankle, here they were thigh high and, where longer, asymmetric to reveal at least one toned limb or split.
On a catwalk the gates at the back of which were opened by preternaturally handsome Versace-clad 'doormen' (to use the term loosely), Ms Versace introduced bias-cutting to her vocabulary for the first time.'It's strong and sensual,' she said. In ruby, teal, black and white, silk dresses skimmed models' bodies and were softer in silhouette than the more classically hour-glass body-conscious line Versace is known for. Intense colour and sparkling Medusa head buttons toughened the look.
The military references that have appeared on catwalks throughout the season were here too: frogging and fringed gold epaulettes, finished long, lean trouser suits in similarly rich shades as did those buttons again.
With her eye on the red carpet as always the designer was sure to come up with a final sequence of goddess gowns that would suit any self-respecting Oscar nominee down to the ground. They were just as glamorous as the women destined to wear them.
'This is a collection about the power of a woman, not just her inner strength, but the attitude she presents to the world,' the designer said.' Every woman can find that power in Versace.'