They are aloof and mysterious, yet like to sit in the audience of their own runway show and mingle with the fashion 'hoi polloi'; they are diminuitive in stature yet their designs and cuts favour the statuesque; and they are young, spritely, and the epitome of downtown cool, whilst their clothes ooze an uptown elegance & sophistication that might traditionally appeal to a more 'mature' customer (with the clothing allowance to match). But, perhaps, therein lies the secret of their success.
In a celebrity-saturated branding jungle, they could almost be perceived as 'Anti-Brand', which bodes well for a label that prides itself on being for fashion insiders, or lovers of chic understatement. They even make a point of using virtually unknown models in their runway shows, when they certainly have the wherewithall to parade a bevy of supermodels if they so wished.
Their Autumn Winter 2013 collection was certainly no exception. With its monochromatic palette, elongated silhouettes, clever cuts, and luxurious fabrications - it was certainly true to the 'anti-brand' they have cleverly created. Beautifully tailored topcoats worn over pencil thin trousers or elegantly asymmetric, drapey ankle-length skirts were fashioned out of black wools and silks. Tunic dresses - some worn over trousers - lightened the load, being made out of creamy, dreamy jacquards and brocades. A personal favorite was an oversized Arran sweater with exaggerated shoulders accompanying a silky pair of pyjama-like pants that would have served well for 'old movie night' on the sofa but begged to be worn to a sophisticated soiree.
There was nothing revolutionary on offer - but that's just the point. Why scream, when you can whisper and still be heard with such resounding clarity.
by Andrew Holden in New York