It was Stella McCartney's turn to take to the Paris catwalk today and she did so, as is her preference, in the magnificent interior of the Opera Garnier.
In a season where clothing that embraces more than overpowers the wearer is prevalent across the board Ms McCartney was in her element. Navy pinstripe tailoring came in all shapes and forms from oversized cocoon coats and jackets to skater dresses. A fisherman knit jumpsuit would bring out the tomboy in any young woman who chose to wear it. More boy meets girl than pure boy were sweater dresses in black and grey with pretty lace inserts at the hem: that grazed the ankle.
The exception to a principally neutral colour palette was all the shades of purple from ultra violet to aubergine. Crepe dresses in these hues were fitted to the body via scaled up elasticated necklines and waistbands that looked cool and exceptionally easy to wear. Felted wool baseball caps (cute) and elevated tractor soled shoes (ugly - in a good way) only added to the over-riding luxe utilitarian and androgynous mood.
As always there was an ethical side to the proceedings. The invitation was a plastic polar bear and the entry card, printed with ice-capped mountains, called for the last of that species to be saved. While McCartney may not single-handedly be able to orchestrate that, she must be applauded for her continuing commitment not to use fur (everywhere on other designers' catwalks for autumn) or even leather. And with that in mind the new season Stella McCartney box and clutch bags were framed in nothing more pernicious than "eco laminated wood".