18 February 2014 by

Simone Rocha Autumn Winter 2014 Show Report: Elizabethan Romance

Simone Rocha has well and truly established herself as a name to be reckoned with on the London fashion week schedule. While her brand remains relatively young – she only graduated from Saint Martins in 2010 - her wicked ability to combine properly conceptual fashion thinking with commercial wearability puts her right up there with the big boys. She’s also a trend dynamo with a weathervane-like ability to pre-empt the changing tides. From Lucite heels to pink coats, Simone’s more often than not on the money.

This season’s outing had all the hallmarks of a classic and further proved her understand that building a brand is all about evolution and a continuity of aesthetic. There are many recurrent motifs in Simone’s work from pearls to pink to picking out unusual erogenous zones with sheer fabrics and cut outs. All were in attendance this season, but naturally for Simone, presented in a new guise.

The overriding silhouette was a play on Elizabethan farthingale construction created by exaggerated heavy pleating at the hip and gold bead and pearl trimming at the join. Fabrics including python stamped leather and high shine, metallic chiffon were cut into striking party dresses that looked like they’d stepped out of a National Portrait canvas by way of a decadently seedy club. Elsewhere we saw sheer lace emblazoned with repeats of regal cross pendants and pretty headpieces, fit for a Tudor princess.

The vibrant tartans which followed brought a dose of Lady Macbeth to proceedings, with matching skirt and trouser suits with a heavy shades of Japanese design – especially via Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto – to the ruffled and oversized cuts. Ruffles are another Simone favourite and we saw them affixed to simple black dresses at the bicep and to trouser pockets, once more emphasising the hip. Foamy overcoats also complete with gathered frills were street styler catnip as were the chunky transparent heeled Mary Janes. Simone is your go to girl if you want to immediately look fashion forward without looking like a victim – a canny signature if ever we saw one.


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