Last season Roksanda Ilincic offered us her version of pretty in pink - it came with a juicy side serving of subversive, making it fully autumn/winter appropriate and just a little bit spikier than we'd usually expect of the designer. For this season the mood is brighter and very optimistic.
It's now ten years since the Serbian-born London-based Ilincic launched her eponymous label which has since become world renowned for its perfect-fit dresses with a difference for both on and off the red carpet. The kind of which bring Samantha Cameron to the front row today and count Cate Blanchett or Rachel McAdams as Hollywood followers. At this milestone Roksanda could've quite simply continued with her ultra-successful signatures and we'd surely have adored them all the same, but she boldly decided to switch things up and to great success. Yes, her wonderful summer frocks were all present and correct, but this time they were layered over skinny-fit trousers, or full midi skirts were paired up with the twee-est of flat bow-fronted ankle boots. Ugly-chic at its very best. Then there were the jackets - oh, the jackets - blown-out boxy numbers, with cocooned backs and two front breast-pockets that managed to be feminine and couture-like but utilitarian all at once. Edgy over a calf-skimming skirt for the brave, easier to pull off with some of the aforementioned skinny pants and the Mary-Janes on offer.
As well as these fresh injections in shape and styling, Roksanda's well documented ability to panel contrasting colours together was in full force. Hi vis neons collided to bring more than a jolt of excitement to simpler shift shapes, while pastels and an omnipresent sunshine yellow were set against black - making for an unusual combination with impressive wear-all-year-round potential, while also offsetting the innate girlishness rooted deep into the Roksanda DNA. If you were ever in doubt of he femininity factor, those black ponytail bows were a constant reminder.
The show finished with a set of looks overlaid in a laser-cut black webbing or mesh or with a heavy amount of plastic flowers piled on. The 3D florals presented a new - and maybe much needed- kind of understated embellishment for those who don't do traditional sparkle. In a more subdued colour palette to the high octane spin of the previous 80 per cent, these looks focused on easy peasy day-to-night wear- another thing the Ilincic lady can always rely upon. Quite simply, her loyal market will be more than happy, street style snappers and fashion eds will be ecstatic to get this onto the front row next season and those discovering her for the first time will feel like they've been missing out for an entire decade. Expect to see much more of this collection come spring time.
Watch the full show below...