Marco Zanini’s swansong for Rochas was a dazzlingly reflective affair with all manner of shimmering, glistening and gleaming fabrics offering enough razzle dazzle to get the Paris audience back into gear. Zanini’s tenure at the brand has been characterised by an aesthetic that’s both heartbreakingly pretty and underlined with an off-kilter current. Today’s show offered more of the former and perhaps less of the latter than we have been accustomed to.
The first look out of the stable doors was a paean to the power of exquisite fabric with hand painted velvet roses spotted devore-like across a tinsel like material, described in the show notes as ‘Nigel’. While the name might be incongruous, this bright, technical fibre super-charged several garments including a lime opera coat which appeared almost electrically live. Zanini’s relationships with both French and Italian fabric mills will surely stand him in good stead whatever his new, as yet announced venture might be.
Classic Zanini trademarks were on show from the awkward midi hem lengths down to the buttoned-up modesty. The palette was also typical with blushing nudes and macaroon shades of lemon, spearmint and pistachio ramping up the femininity. Quirky ostrich feather festooned slip-ons and jewel bedecked flat slingbacks were a perfect fit for the deisgner’s unconventional heroine. What was new was the level of shine. Inspired by Tennessee Williams’ The Glass Menagerie, each and every look was coated with thermo-sealed Swarovski crystals – including the gossamer-fine organza Zanini used for blouses and t-shirts.
Thumbnail sized clear crystals were also heavily embellished across calf-grazing coats and dresses while long swinging prism necklaces hung from model’s necks. Frosted lace and transparent, textured organza dresses were suitably ladylike while full tutu skirts upped the princess quotient. While some looks read a little too shiny, you can’t help but marvel at his moxie. Whether, as rumours suggest it is Schiaparelli that has poached his talents or another covetable position is on the cards, you can be sure Zanini has the chops and the vision to keep us coming back.