26 February 2014 by

Rochas Autumn Winter 2014: Alessandro's New Edge

@Grazia_Live: Huge trapeze silhouettes

Today marked the debut at Rochas of Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the Neapolitan designer, best known for his eponymous line and his creative direction of insider favourite label, No.21. There were certainly big boots to fill with the legacy of recently departed, creative director of 5 years Marco Zanini to contend with - now installed at Schiaparelli that designer’s first ready to wear line is set to be one of the highlights of the Paris collections.

Impressively, Dell’Acqua didn’t baulk at the task ahead, instead taking Zanini’s innovations and new signatures at the brand and adding a new flavour. The huge volumes which have made Rochas such a hit with the street style brigade were out in force, with bold, trapeze silhouettes dominating. Full skirts and dresses descended in a triangle from the shoulder and were then often layered with a secondary A-line dress or princess coat adding a serious feeling of buttoned up modesty.

@Grazia_Live: Watch out for this beadwork - seriously dangerous looking embellishment

But not everything was quite so demure, indeed Dell’Acqua’s girl had a hard, almost dangerous edge to her. Fierce beading created spikes emanating from leather gloves and heavily embellished stilettos made sure you heard the models before you saw them. Slippery PVC skirts and well fastened shirts added off-kilter sex appeal even when paired with modest full skirts in devore velvet and chiffon .

Gobstopper jewels, filigree embroidery and gilt leaded fabrics made sure the collection shone. Whether all those tops with heavy pleating at the waist will flatter is debatable, but there was confidence in plumping for such tricky proportions in a first outing. All in all this collection established that Dell’Acqua is committed to evolution rather than revolution at Rochas – for the brand’s many fans, this collection should send an extremely reassuring message.


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