While Proenza Schouler is New York through and through, their collections have a particular resonance with European editors, offering the endless ideas, technical mastery and unusual detailing that scores points with the out-of-towners. That and plenty of good looking clothes, of course.
It’s safe to say that Proenza Schouler wouldn’t look out of place besides the Celines and Balenciagas of this fashion world, but that doesn’t mean that anything feels either derivative or ersatz. This season’s new ideas included wide leg ankle cropped trousers in tissue suede and cotton crepe, apron fastened dresses and a host of trompe l’oeil printed tailoring and outerwear which appeared to reveal seams and internal garment construction.
The palette this season was elemental with rust suede and a selection of metal notes from bronze breast plates to silver lurex, tempered with an unusual addition of citron. Pleated skirts with silver, gold and bronze foiled edging, paired with midriff baring tops or oversized crop sweaters offered the collection's most immediately covetable looks – each of which will surely be snapped on the sidewalk come February.
The proceeding black and lurex dresses managed to be at once classic and directional. The frocks were a mash up of Studio 54 by way of a grimy 90s underground club and looked like the kind of thing you could throw on to impress both chi chi and hip contingents. The final looks added a centurion load of solid metal to proceedings, serving up some of the most obviously editorial looks we’ve seen in this edition of NYFW. You could say McCollough and Hernandez are worthy bearers of the fashion Midas touch.