While their label is the quintessential New Establishment luxury brand, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez - Proenza Schouler’s dynamic duo – haven’t forgotten where they came from. While their A/W 2013-14 collection might add the shiniest polish to NYC’s downtown vibe, the freezing cold, deserted building venue, the visceral soundtrack and the mussed up, low-key beauty served as a reminder that these kids are connected to the street in a way their contemporaries can only dream of.
So chic it hurt monochromatic ensembles opened the collection and this season’s directional curved shoulder and a new knee-skimming hemline were writ large. As the collection wore on, it became clear that fabric was once again king. Our invitations were emblazoned with Keith Haring-esque squiggles, but it would have been impossible to predict the ways in which the motif was expressed. From poppy, abstracted lace dresses to structured pony skin skirts and jacket combos, the pattern provided a blueprint for textile innovation.
Elsewhere ostrich feathers and leathers teamed with oversized, coated sweaters epitomised Proenza’s up vs downtown mélange, while heavy but somehow sexy boucle frocks proved that we haven’t seen everything yet. A play on volume and proportion has become a Proenza signature, but never had it looked more convincing.
It’s also definitely worth addressing that hemline again. Sitting bang on the knee we saw the exact same length at Alexander Wang earlier in the week, but we’d presumed it was a blip. With the Proenza boy’s validation, it’s definitely a new direction worth betting on.