08 September 2013 by

Prabal Gurung Spring Summer 2014: Femininity With Bite

Prabal Gurung is riding high on the back of some seriously impressive product placements - both Lady Gaga and Diane Kruger have recently worn looks by the designer and of course that double of whammy of patronage from Michelle Obama and the Duchess of Cambridge hasn't hindered the rise of his star.

Full of ideas and original juxtapositions as well as creative production values, today's presentation confirmed Gurung as a bonafide member of NYC's new establishment.

The show opened with the full line up of models housed within a plastic sheeted tent creating an installation-like atmosphere. What was immediately apparent was Gurung's commitment to colour with candy shades sweet enough to give your dentist cause for concern. From saccharine pink, pearlescent  pistachio, lavender and azure blue, all in sheeny satin, the scheme recalled the last days of debutante beauty.

Other nods to the late 50's and early 60's were seen in the mid- century couture silhouettes and details. Sack backs, knotted neck and waist ties, undulating folds and ruffles were the order of the day with innovative construction bringing Gurung's formidable cutting skills to the fore.

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Elsewhere we had cellophane wrapped models with see-thru PVC outerwear, glittery florals and laminated patent edging bringing a swinging note to proceedings. The silk varsity jacket was given a couture overhaul with bonded technical satin, full volumes and graphic painted motifs bringing the Pink Ladies' staple into the 21st century.

The overall result was a collection with a jarring, synthetic flavour- and that's meant as a compliment. Showing he's not afraid to take risks and that he has a true appreciation of off-kilter beauty, this line is sure to garner yet more devotees both on and off the red carpet.

Watch the full show below...



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