Prabal Gurung is a designer who can switch up his signatures season to season. For Autumn Winter 2014, all his trademarks were in place from languid drapery, striking digital prints and dramatic siholhuettes but his models sauntered down the runway with a totally new attitude. From deconstructed tuxedo jackets ripped at the seams to expose flesh then interwoven with jewel-coloured drapes of silk to peerless knitwear, patchworked and finished with theatric knotted scarves, the Prabal Gurung girl is having an urban and impressively soigne moment.
The opening silhouette consisted of oversized knits matched with draped chiffon skirts slashed mercilessly to the thigh. The palette was characteristically confident with fiery oranges and reds punctuating tones between black, white and grey. Prints were equally molten with swathes of volcanic fabric layered over silks and tied across the body at shoulder or hip.
The final looks further proved Prabal's red carpet chops, perfectly playing off the prim and the sensual. With slashes at the small of the back, intricate embellishment and necklines reaching right up to the jaw, Prabal played with what was concealed and subsequently revealed. This was a mature outing and wearable to boot, with slot-right-into-your-wardrobe pieces in amongst the drama.