Sir Paul Smith is a man who has built his LFW reputation on boy-meet-girl tailoring and a quirky play on Britinessness. There is a sense that you always know what to expect at his shows – not necessarily a bad thing in a global market of homogenised trends. This season however, Smith tuned it up a notch or three with ramped up, disco-ready colour combos, modern, bold silhouettes and a sense of new relevance.
One of the strongest stories was a pair of oversized coats – one in navy and one in white. Slouch on, slouch off, these coats should be on every self-respecting fash-packer’s shopping list come September, offering a wearable but striking way into next season’s voluminous outerwear trend. Other highlights included a stellar crop of trouser styles. Well-know for his way with suiting, Smith’s low slung pleated pants came in all the best colours of the rainbow including Yves Klein blue, magenta and proper pillar box red.
Print was also given a platform in this collection with architectural motifs of interior columns and arches emblazoned across surprisingly sexy silk mini dresses. Perhaps not so successful were the clashing abstracted Union Jack motifs – with such a strong fashion message, we didn’t need to be obviously reminded of those Brit clichés.
Regardless, this was Smith’s best outing in several seasons, and will sure to be featured in many a fashion editorial. The ease to the perfectly cut silk blouses, imposing shearling lined suede sweaters and boxy boy blazers will doubtless have get shoppers spending too.
Words by Katherine Ormerod