Peter Copping's girl at Nina Ricci often has an ephemeral fragility to her, as if you were to touch her tissue fine dresses and precariously fastened jackets, she might break. This season however, Copping added solidity to his wardrobe with a collection which addressed a woman with very real needs.
There was a tender tactility to many of the looks with a focus on fine gauge cashmere knits which provided both the fabric for slouchy sweaters and the back of supple leather trousers, slung low and cropped at the ankle. Texture was also explored with blistered wovens and seamless combinations of silk, lace and knitted panels.
Nina Ricci Autumn Winter 2014 [Getty]
Elsewhere Nina Ricci's signature skirt suits were cut in wool to perfectly follow the line of the derrière. Jackets were ruched in taffeta and came complete with gilt covered peplums. The palette of claret and aubergine with a highlight of Parma violet further established the message of substance.
But there was lightness too in simple pin tucked dresses with modest turtle necklines and a story of lilac blooms and dusty pink furry coats offering plenty of garden party options (it is after all always summer somewhere in the jetset world).
The eveningwear shimmered and sparkled with heavy lace embellished with pailettes revealing skin and rather large pants below. There were also gowns slashed to the hip further ratcheting up the sex appeal. Grown up, glamorous and definitely believable, this collection proved there's more than just an ethereal dream behind this Jolie Madame.