If the Prada show in Milan was a darkly romantic and cerebral affair, the Miu Miu collection, on the final afternoon of the Paris season, was as bright, breezy, dynamic and upbeat as any woman could wish for.
On a runway wrapped for the duration in plastic, the show opened with sporty quilted anoraks layered over matching mini-shift dresses in typically surprising shades: rose pink and primrose yellow; pale blue, navy and green. These were worn with legs bared and transparent PVC ankle boots, metal screw-heeled court shoes, strappy sandals or Miu Miu wellies - a first on this catwalk and very cute.
Next came the oversized masculine overcoats that have been seen across the board for the forthcoming season. They looked particularly fine in this designer's hands, in navy again with red epaulettes or grey with emerald green ones and with dull metal buttons. So far, so utilitarian which also chimes in accord with the prevailing mood. Beneath them, however, were pastel coloured shirts unbuttoned to reveal equally pale underwear and wool skirts in school uniform colours that were so teeny tiny a disapproving onlooker might describe them as belts. Not that the Miu Miu girl would care. She's sexy and she knows it.
Things soon began to twinkle. More roomy coats came in pink and silver brocade and that same mini-shift made a reappearance in equally sparkly materials at times juxtaposed - and jarring - with PVC.
This was a light-hearted, high-spirited moment, marginally twisted in the way only Miuccia Prada knows how. With their pale glossy lips and sleek centre-parted hair, models seemed, at first sighting, fresh-faced, innocent and youthful. Appearances may be deceptive, however: they were pretty, certainly, but just that little bit dirty too.