Presenting her first womenswear collection since the tragic disappearance of her brother - and Missoni ’s CEO – Vittorio, Angela Missoni managed a brief wave to the crowd after her Milanese show today. While journalists were denied backstage access, after the show Missoni reportedly told Italian News Agency ANSA that she "continues to hope," that her brother will be found alive after his BN-2 Islander plane went off radar as he and his companions flew between the Los Roques archipelago and the Venezuelan capital of Caracas on January 4th. Ms Missoni admitted that "one is only speaking of hypotheses not of evidence," when it came to substantiating her family’s hopes. She continued, "It is a singular moment, very tiring, the most difficult of my life, but we were born with large shoulders, I hope, of course I hope."
While two suitcases that were purportedly on board have washed up on shore, one on Curacao and the other on Bonaire, little information has given any conclusive evidence of the Vittorio’s whereabouts. In such a difficult family situation, it was understandable that the collection today was presented without too much fanfare, and the Missonis failed to take their regular position on the front row.
When it came to the clothes it was clear that Angela Missoni’s thoughts were in line with several of her contemporaries. Exploring the theme of dishabille – or the state of undress – Missoni sent out her models in un-done, close cropped shearling dressing gowns, silken pyjamas and be-ribboned tabards which revealed the ribcage. The look brought to mind an ultra elegant stay-at-home-worker, with her sloppy chic free-lance lifestyle. Comfy but sophisticated, there was a sense of blurring between work and home life, and night and daywear.
Elsewhere we were treated to a selection of urban-appropriate fine-knitted dresses and separates which wouldn’t be out of place in downtown New York. Sporty details including racerbacks and halter necklines were combined with laddered wovens and tights to bring an energetic, and at times, grungy youthfulness to the line. The palette was industrial: grey cement, aluminium, steel and black with highlights of lime, lapis and coral.
Texture is the big buzzword of the season, and unsurprisingly for knit specialists, this was a strength of the collection. Cashmere yarns sat alongside alpaca and cowhide while a play on knit transparencies – along with some seriously revealing back views- added a potent sense of sex appeal. While the Missoni’s weather their heart-breaking situation, it is hard to keep the focus on the fashion, but there was much here to intrigue. Until conclusive evidence is unearthed, we can only hope alongside Ms Missoni and her family that their ordeal will have a happy ending.