Meadham Kirchhoff Autumn Winter 2014: Edge Of Seventeen

19 February 2014 by

Even with foil shimmer curtains and giant hearts rooted within a red play-pen set, a pumping Stevie Nicks ‘Edge of Seventeen’ soundtrack and a line-up of street-cast and professional models, it was the clothes and the clothes alone of today’s Meadham Kirchhoff show that caused a collective swoon. The style crowds were easily swept up into the crescendo of London Fashion Week’s closing because one of the schedule’s most uncompromising fashion labels felt a smidgen more approachable – and therefore, a step closer to many a wardrobe.

We wouldn’t dare utter the word commercial in reference to these two highly complex designers – even their Tralala perfume created in collaboration with Penhaligons, which sat heavy in the air of the Tate's Turbine Hall, has been meticulously executed - so rest easy super-fans; the refined offering was by no means safe. In fact, the duo’s saccharine and hyper-girlish signatures were still in full swing and the styling indicated that the simple notion of just wearing a chiffon dress wasn't acceptable on this runway. Well, what imaginary teen worth her salt would really be so boring anyway? Rainbow knee-high boots, clompy Mary-Janes, patterned tights, lace-trimmed veils and side-clipped school-girl hair made even the most wearable pieces look slightly unhinged – in a good way.

Pull the styling apart and the pieces themselves were pretty and more polished than the almost costumed and historically derivative looks of past seasons. BUY ME they screamed. The most divine and perfectly-cut feather-light chiffon gowns can be Courtney Love-grunge by day, waifish nymph by night. The prim skirt suits could do Dot Cotton-style granny-chic or go power-tripping in a (fairly liberal) office. The velvet panelled dresses – a 1970s ice skater’s ecstasy – brought the boys into a confident, new and graphic realm. And considering the never-ending street style obsession for crazy photo-op coats, those metallic python jackets could cause more than a scuffle between LFW’s most directional dressers. MK would never market itself as a red carpet label or one with a celebrity agenda, but the ‘eveningwear’ segment of this show felt like it could be the most refreshing thing a young starlet could choose in 2014.


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