Last season Marc Jacobs' mood was resolutely dark with explorations of Edwardian gothic drama at his eponymous line and an unrelenting black palette at his final collection at Louis Vuitton. This evening's show in New York's Lexington Armoury couldn't have been more of a riposte to that vibe.
From the outset the attitude was upbeat. 'Happy days are here again, sing a song of cheer again. So long sad times, bad times we are rid of you at last. Cloudy grey times you are now a thing of the past,' intoned a milky voice over a cumulus cloud littered catwalk. Instead of inky denims and jet embellishment for Autumn/Winter 2014 we had a clean palette of cream, powder blue, custard and tapioca. "It was Faye Dunaway, Lauren Bacall and Jessica Lange. Ladies in chic beige. Insanity and serenity- we wanted it to feel like a spa,' Jacobs explained backstage after the show.
A theme of silver linings couldn't have said more about the designer's mindset after the end of a 16-year tenure at Louis Vuitton. 'This collection was about taking youth and making it fresh and powerful,' he said. This translated to effervescent midi length dresses complete with stiff ruffles, bled with with ombré pigments of coral and dove grey. There was also a focus on layering with matching knitted tunics and trousers tucked into tonal ankle boots with deep, deep necklines adding sex appeal to the cosines.
Indeed comfort was key, but that didn't mean a compromise in glamour. Pretty pailettes were packed densely on longline vests and gorgeous shearling lined boots and covetable jackets in dreamy shades made Marc's girl reassuringly expensive. Elsewhere bead and sequin encrusted tunics and gentle boot cut trousers offered a new code for cocktail dressing.
This collection more than anything offered a clean break and once more reasserted Marc's indefatigable spirit and neophile ambition. With an IPO reportedly just around the corner, you couldn't have faulted New York's renaissance man for confidence.