Brigitte Bardot, swathed in her yellow towel on the roof of her Caprese Villa in Jean Luc Godard’s movie Le Mepris, was Lucas Nascimento's inspiration this season. Cue images of the 1960s French New Wave, all bushy fringes, thick black cat-eye liner ,pencil skirts and nautical stripes. This was a thoroughly modern version of ‘Mepris’ - and minus the actress's angst.
The inspiration was taken from Bardot’s (fairly constant) state of undress in the cult flim. Models emerged in tubular wrapped towel dresses and tops, in navy and lemon yellow with thin sporty bra straps emerging from beneath, louchely sloping off one shoulder. It was this sense of sudden emergence that was the invisible lynch-pin, delicately holding the collection together. Slivers of pleated lemon and mint peeked oh-so-slightly out of the most minimal of column dresses. Tiny panelled shorts hid discreetly beneath a luxe sweatshirt dress that only nearly draped off the shoulders. It was as if the clothes were barely worn, the last but most beautiful thought on these shower-fresh, wet-look women as they whisked out the door.
Nascimento’s technical capabilities of seasons past came through the collection via his play on gauzy double crepes and folded superfine Plongé leathers. Dresses and separates in this leather somehow floated, suspended on the skinniest of straps and sliced in asymmetric, weightless layers.
Not long out of the London College of Fashion, the designer’s deftness and lightness of touch conjures an image of an extraordinary woman that is years beyond his age. His balance of elegance and sporty minimalism makes him an exciting one to watch.