"This season the focus of the collection is on the luxurious quality and treatment of the materials produced by the savoir faire of the Louis Vuitton ateliers," Marc Jacobs stated of his autumn collection for that monolithic brand. Given the Vuitton heritage as a luggage company first and foremost, it was nothing if not apposite that the set was a hotel corridor, complete with quintessentially French wallpaper and numbered stained oak doors: there were 50 in all. In and out of these came models in sweet slips and cami- knickers with what looked like their boyfriends' oversized coats or furs thrown over the top. Later came tea dresses in chiffon and panne velvet embroidered with petals that fluttered as they walked.
In a season where the play between the masculine and the feminine has loomed large, some of the show's strongest moments fused both in a single look: traditional menswear fabrics, and tweeds in particular, were cut into curvy dresses with petticoat straps and trimmed with lace. The aforementioned overcoats were subtly sequinned at the hem and slouchy sweaters were worn with silk pencil skirts in gently faded shades.
It was an intensely romantic vision. The cast, which included Cara Delevingne and a rare appearance courtesy of Kate Moss, seemed to be headed for a long anticipated assignation. There was a melancholy note to it all in the end though or, in the designer's own words, "an attitude of getting dressed up only to find the most glamorous destination is one's own hotel room." Could this be a nod to his own existence post Hurricane Sandy - he was forced out of his home due to damage and his signature collection shown in New York last month also dwelt on that fact.
The good news for the moneyed Vuitton customer is that however all dressed up with nowhere to go she may find herself, she would never be seen without the perfect accessories. The Pochette Accessoire, Lockit and Speedy bags looked lavish finished with precious stones or gleaming metal chains. Ultra-high, 1940s inspired sandals were equally desirable crafted in muted colourways and exotic skins.
"The appeal lies not in a graphic or a logo," according to Mr Jacobs who chose to put the famous monogram to one side for the time being at least, "but in the seduction of the surface treatments." These, as always, were exquisite.
Finishing on an upbeat note, the designer took his bows in a pair of tomato red floral print Louis Vuitton men's pyjamas, created in collaboration with Jake and Dinos Chapman. And very dapper they looked too.