This season Alber Elbaz served up a collection which was less razzle dazzle than we’ve seen in recent seasons, but certainly none the less captivating for its lack of glitter.
First out were a selection of looks created in tweed, either blanket style in heavily woven threads, black boucle or black and white houndstooth. From tiered, multiple layered skirts to wrapped, single breasted jackets, all with heavy frayed edges, there was an air of Japanese proportion and finish to the somewhat disheveled garments. Tweed also cropped up in a cream matching skirt and t-shirt and an asymmetric cut simple midi dress – both felt easy to wear.
The collection also proffered a new take on military style with gold button detailing, caps complete with martial plumage and marching boots all in attendance. That German war-time vibe which has been trending this season certainly resonated, especially in a fiercely cut black leather strapless dress and an olive green leather trench.
Malika Firth hits the Lanvin AW14 catwalk [Getty]
Slinky silk, so often Elbaz’ tool of creation, this season cascaded in deceptively artless, long sleeved dresses. Bias cut silk gowns in petrol, midnight blue and blush skipped the vintage lesson and made their way more towards a grungy after dark option. Elsewhere when it came to eveningwear, embellishment was king with substantial barrel bead and pearl fringing framing dresses from the shoulder to the hip. Ostrich feathers also lined skirts, jackets and a series of broad brimmed hats, while long fabric tassels were used to colour block dresses, often trailing way below the hemline.
Less poppy and obviously catering to ‘youth’, this collection was undeniably infused with a dynamic and hip energy. And that’s something Lanvin’s premier FROW-er, Rihanna, alongside many of fashion’s most directional customers will be viewing with pleasure.