[Jason Lloyd Evans]
NO FISH NO NOTHING screamed both show notes and money-spinning sweatshirts at Kenzo which opened the Paris collections this morning. This recently revitalised brand took this as an opportunity to announce a partnership with The Blue Marine Foundation in a bid to 'alleviate the pressure on the world's oceans due to over fishing and pollution'.
It was only apposite, then, that models stepped out against a backdrop of torrential rain and walked around speakers set into the catwalk filled with more pulsating water to showcase the clothes.
These opened on a monochromatic, geometric note with oversized boxy jackets and cropped shirts and trousers all inlaid with rectangular patches: black on white and vice versa. Some had wavy edges to drive home the over-riding theme.
It wasn't long before colour and print took over, specifically watery patterns in marine blue, lemon and raspberry with oversized clutch bags and trainers to match. They all came stamped onto a silhouette that paid lip service to the Space Age designs of the 1960s and to the sporty mood that is sweeping the runways elsewhere.
Since Humberto Leon and Carol Lim arrived at this label they have injected it with an impressive new energy that is as determinedly fresh as it is youthful. The aforementioned sweatshirts and T-shirts, telephone wire chokers and bracelets and mules with square, polka-dotted Perspex heels will doubtless fly out of stores come January.
Fish flew too, finally, embroidered across mini-shifts, biker jackets and more. They looked pretty and as instantly recognisable as any fashion follower could wish for.