Kenzo Autumn Winter 2014: Mysterioso

02 March 2014 by

Kenzo Autumn Winter 2014 Show Report

Kenzo Autumn Winter 2014 [Getty]

The Kenzo show was the final part of a trilogy inspired by the director David Lynch: men's, pre-Fall and now main women's wear, 'the crescendo' according to the show notes.

The set, designed in collaboration with Lynch, was dominated by a monstrous sculpture - shades of his early masterpiece, Eraserhead, here - and deliberately distorting mirrors.

The clothes themselves were less obviously twisted although proportions were certainly exaggerated: overblown coats, ultra high-waisted and elongated trousers often with skirts layered over the top and Op Art prints were of the moment: think artfully jarring and discreetly surreal.

Colours - bright and bold - were named after characters in Lynch's breakthrough 1980s TV series Twin Peaks and a later movie: Wild At Heart. 'Laura Lilac', 'Midnight Dorothy' and 'Wild Lula Lime' - a cute touch, they were dazzling. Add to the mix shredded organza, foiled knits and detachable panelling - such transformative touches are big for the forthcoming season - and the look was as polished as it was fresh.

As for the accessories this label is known and loved for... These  referenced 'Northwestern American Streetworkers Vestiary' apparently, and came just as thick and fast as the Kenzo customer might wish for. In colours as violent as the clothes they were worn with. Oversized clutch bags read FOREVER, NO? (Wait list alert.)Shoes were wedge-heeled and studiously ugly or metallic and of the safety boot variety and sunglasses were mirrored: part geek, part  sci-fi.


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