03 March 2013 by

Kenzo Autumn Winter 2013

It's been two years now since Opening Ceremony's Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took over at Kenzo and it's safe to say that in that short time they have revived a grand old designer name into one of the hottest tickets on the Paris calendar.

Their fourth show for the house this morning was attended by every international cool kid and editor in town, more of a few of them dressed in the Kenzo logo sweatshirts and baseball caps which have by now become cult buys and which no hipster worth his or her credentials would be without.

The collection was shown at Samaritaine, once a glittering department store and soon to be developed by LVMH (the luxury goods conglomerate which also owns Kenzo) into an upscale hotel. Given the nip in the air it came as something of a relief to be given quilted ponchos stamped with the word Kenzo to keep warm.

And what of the clothes? The designers were inspired they said by ancient Asian temples in Nepal, India and China. This translated into sharp, sporty separates in red, black and gold jacquards - a shrunken bomber, say, worn with an A-line miniskirt, a printed kimono sleeved jumpsuit and that sweatshirt again, for autumn emblazoned with a single jewelled eye.

Then there was the requisite fluffy chubby coats that are big now and getting bigger (literally) and shiny vinyl outerwear (here in ruby) which likewise is prevalent across the board this season and next. Glossy ankle and thigh-high sock boots with chunky heels are destined, likewise, to sell like hotcakes come autumn.

This was, in the end, a simple, energetic and cleverly commercial collection. True, it's unlikely to change the world but it will make it a more cute place for the young and fashionable to be.


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