Junya Watanabe Spring Summer 2014 Show Report: Fringe Benefits

28 September 2013 by

Given that the influence of the great Japanese fashion designers seems more prevalent than ever just now, all eyes were on Junya Watanabe who opened the Paris collections this morning.

Famously a man of few words, he had only two to say: 'folk' and 'law'. Like his wonderful designs, though, they spoke volumes. There were feathers and tassles aplenty for sure. The law part of the equation, meanwhile, might best be explained as a reference to the rigours of pattern cutting which are in very safe hands here.

Watanabe - or Junya as he tends to be known - has many time-honoured signatures. The perfectly cut trench coat, the 'perfecto' jacket, the draped jersey dress are all examples of these. Every six months he looks at them with a fresh eye and this time around that decreed they should be fringed, plaited and beaded in ever more complex a manner.

There was elegance and even majesty to many of these clothes. A narrow shouldered, double-breasted maxi coat the colour of sand was backless and beautiful, an equally slender black jacket was closed with row upon row of gabardine so finely cut it looked like cloth jewellery.

Finally, of course, there was the denim that has by now become a staple in every discerning fashion editors' wardrobe: more than a few members of the audience were wearing Autumn's patch-worked jeans. For Spring, oversized, low-slung. dark and distressed will be the order of the day, best paired with white cotton shirting.


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