01 March 2014 by

Junya Watanabe Autumn Winter 2014 Show Report: Patchwork Madness

Junya Watanabe chucked out the patch-worked jeans worn and loved by so many these past two seasons in favour of decoupage of a more dark and even more richly textured kind in Paris today.

In a collection that was black almost from start to finish - and from models' feather and vinyl wrapped heads to their winklepicker shoes - the designer stitched Lurex to lace, feathers to fur, sequins to boiled wool to ever more desirable effect.

Sometimes the patches were circular, appliqued onto inky surfaces like oversized petals or sprouting, semi-circular and 3-D. In other instances coats and cropped skinny trousers were made out of vertical and horizontal ribbons of the aforementioned fabrics. In all instances the designer's sensitivity and awareness of the woman within the clothes was - as always - second to none.

The silhouette was principally scaled up and cocooning on the top half and skinny on the bottom: leggings were sequinned from the front, Lurex from behind; vinyl from the front, sequinned from behind and so forth. The enveloping jacket, capes, perfectos, coats and dresses this designer is known and loved for, meanwhile, were so elaborately worked it was tempting to reach out and touch them.

For all the complexity of their workmanship, garments never felt precious or overdone, however. In the end, these are clothes designed to be worn in a modern, metropolitan environment and they will look great there.


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