In the same week that Kering announced it had taken a minority stake in Joseph Altuzarra's young business, he delivered perhaps the most polished and accomplished collection of his career to date. When it comes to accolades, you could never accuse Altuzarra of underachieving with both a CFDA Award for his womenswear design and recognition of his talents within the business community. But the new investment is set to take his work to a whole new level.
Instead of buckling under the expectation, Altuzarra rose to the challenge this evening mining his own archive and bringing a fresh crop of inspirations to his catwalk. "It was about a sense of ease and effortlessness, a certain deshibille. There were so many references from films and art and from my past... I was looking to capture a sense of grace," Altuzarra explained surrounded by his family backstage.
The whole Altuzarra family backstage post-show [Grazia_Live]
That translated to an elegant riff on classic shirting- twill stripes reimagined in silk and cotton skirts and dresses created from shirt pieces complete with trailing ties.
It wouldn't be an Altuzarra show without some leg on show and split midis featured in several looks. Other signatures re-explored were the heavy folds of fabric between the waist and hips creating a bustle-like peplum and the use of iridescence in eveningwear.
Additional highlights included crystal encrusted knits and unbuttoned, appliquéd corset jackets and a smart play on denim patchwork, realised as slinky silk blouses. Leather fringing completed the technical mastery on display tonight. With such a confident showing, Kering's bet looks pretty safe.