Jonathan Saunders Spring Summer 2014 Report: Free Spirits

16 September 2013 by

'It was about free spirits,' said Jonathan Saunders backstage following his show which was remarkable especially as far as colour was concerned: it sang.

There were references to the Seventies - ruched, tiered chiffon and peasant sleeves but all slightly twisted, even wrong - and to the Nineties - luxe satin bombers and slouchy trousers with a tuxedo (or maybe go faster?) stripe in a contrasting and at times jarring hue.

'Free spirits happen at different times,' Saunders continued. 'In the Seventies, the Nineties. There was that kind of casual detail, a sense of ease.'

If the end result appeared effortless that belied the work that went into its making. Harking back to the start of his career, rainbow colours here once again bled into each other;  geometric panels of sky blue were juxtaposed with more in raspberry or navy, blush was played off against flame.

The bold florals that are already established as part of next summer's wardrobe here looked almost violent in places. Peonies in apple green or ultraviolet bloomed particularly brightly.

Only adding to the relaxed mood of it all were shoes - heavy fringed wooden wedges or flat sandals were a witty riff on a bohemian theme.

If a sweet feminity was often at play, meanwhile, it was undercut by a strict masculinity: in the buttoned up blue cotton collars of embroidered organza shirts or in tailored jackets zipped right up to the throat.

'It was thinking about the women I know,' Saunders concluded, 'about how they like to dress.'

Watch the full show below...


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