Given the all-singing, all-dancing media circus the international collections have become, Jil Sander's quietly dignified, even pure aesthetic signifies a moment of calm just as it always has done. For her second season back at her eponymous label the designer sent out the lovely cashmere coats with which she made her name in camomile, burnt orange and sky blue as well as classic navy and grey. They were oversized as the moment decrees coats must be but never so huge as to be attention-seeking.
Neither was there any heavy metal hardware disrupting their clean surfaces. Instead a single bold stripe in a contrasting shade, a reversed seam here and a tuck there were the only decorative touches. The latter were functional too, only adding to the beauty of proportion and fit. Soft black leather, equally, stood away from the body slightly: dresses and jackets were cocooning over and above skin-tight and refreshing for that. They were tough but feminine and without a trace of the fetish references dominating the catwalks elsewhere. That would just be rude.
Sander spoke of "spirited poise, effortless modernity and a regal figure". These have always been her priorities. More than dressing to impress, her monied customer enjoys a private dialogue with her clothes which are wonderfully well made in the finest and most discreetly luxurious fabrics. This was never more evident than in an end sequence of all black pieces finished with stripes again, this time gilded and horizontal across the front of a feather-light sweater or lining the split in a knee-length skirt.