18 September 2013 by

Gucci Spring Summer 2014 Show Report: Art Deco Drapery

'I took activewear essentials as a starting point and set out to create a feminine take on technical outfitting,' said Frida Giannini, creative director of Gucci, of her show. This was the first big name on the Milan schedule and always a sign of trends to come. If anything drove home the message that, six months from now, luxe sportswear will be enjoying a re-newed moment in the sun or indeed that the Seventies and the Nineties are the revivals of the season then this was it.

Gone were autumn's film noir heroines in their pencil-thin skirt suits. In their place came a roomy silhouette, elasticated waistbands and cuffs and possibly the most upscale string vests the world has ever seen.

There were some clever ideas. Loose-fitting dresses in burnt orange silk and, later, Lurex in bohemian shades of bronze, plum and magenta, were held in place on the body with visible underwear and fluttering black ribbons and bows. Backs were exposed either entirely or veiled in panels of black mesh.

It was all crafted, though, Giannini said, 'with Gucci codes': black was still very much a fixture and soft leathers and suede also spoke of the heritage of this Italian status label.

Any ornamentation was inspired by Erte illustrations, Giannini explained: think stylised petals and more Art Deco motifs. The silhouettes echoed that period in places also with dropped waists and a rectilinear line.

If the look might have seemed all new to the body conscious Gucci customer she will be more than comfortable with any accessories: bags were plump and suspended from the shoulders or paper flat and fringed and crafted in exotic skins in rich colours to match. Shoes were strappy and with ultra-high, glossy black heels. There are limits, after all: however casual the mood might be, there's no place for trainers here.

Watch the full show below...


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