20 February 2014 by

Gucci Autumn Winter 2014: Short And Sweet

The Gucci creative director Frida Giannini said the motivation behind her new collection was 'a longing for precision, clean lines with precious materials and a new colour palette'.

And so for Autumn the Gucci woman appeared lighter and more youthful than she has done, dressed in skinny boyfriend jeans and cigarette pants worn low on the hips paired with pea - and princess coats with flat polished silver buttons. The shades they came in looked almost edible. All the blues from ice to cornflower and greens from fern to peppermint made an appearance and so too did blush pink and primrose yellow. The label's iconic Jackie bag was reinvented and crafted in rare skins to match. There was very little of the label's signature black to be seen.

Putting aside Gucci's Seventies heyday for now - in recent years it has been looked at on this runway more often than any other decade - the designer focused instead on the more obviously optimistic and upbeat 1960s. Skirts were short and sharp throughout. A raised waist line and A-line skirt also clearly referenced that era.

While the overall effect was relatively minimal, that did not mean any skimping on materials. Nappa leather  frilled fronts (think men's dress shirts), mink T-shirts, chubby coats and a scaled up animal print on silk and ponyskin all exuded the luxury this great Italian name is famous for. For evening, meanwhile, smoky crystals embellished a similarly pure silhouette lighting up the proceedings nicely.

Gucci is also - and perhaps above all - known for accessories of course. With that in mind the signature horsebit particularly stole the show. It appeared on bracelets - finished with more crystal - and the classic loafer morphed into ankle and then knee boots, first with a low heel and finishing up just as sky high as the Gucci customer might wish for. It looked great in pastel coloured python.


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