17 February 2014 by

Giles Autumn Winter 2014 Show Report: Riot Girls!

'I wanted to go for a pop world rather than a history world,' said the designer Giles Deacon of his London show. In past seasons he has looked at everything from a distressed damsel in an ancient country pile to Blackadder at full Elizabethan throttle.

There was nothing retro about the bold, bolshy girls who stomped down his catwalk in leathers - trousers quilted and cut away from behind to reveal big orange knickers - DMs and thick black tights this time though. Not that the designer had thrown off his obsession with nature. 'But it was a melancholy view of nature, nature with a sharpness and danger to it Giles said.

With that in mind, hyped up kingfishers alighting on thorny branches and oversized beetles made their way across everything from A-line tunics to perfecto jackets: all beautifully printed, jewelled and embroidered despite their somewhat sinister appearance.

There were cleverly commercial clothes aplenty - tufted tartan coats, mannish tailored trousers and giant sloppy knits to name just a few. Giles being Giles, however, big entrance gowns made, well, an entrance also. What looked like a full-length white silk T-shirt was printed with black leather opera gloves - a witty twist on red carpet dressing if ever there was one. A monochrome ballgown was at first glance more conventional. Look more closely and it was encrusted with black bugs.

'I wanted there to a good, exciting attituke,' is how Giles summed it up backstage. 'Fashion should be fun.'


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