A catwalk first took place at the Fendi show in Milan today: a pair of drones hovered over the catwalk filming the show, vaguely sinister sci-fi style. Exclusive to Fendi in Milan, meanwhile, was Cara Delevingne, carrying a Karl Lagerfeld doll with jewelled eyes. As well as designing Chanel, the great couturier is, of course, also creative director of womenswear here.
Mr Lagerfeld described the clothes as 'brutal, poetic, pure, fluid - sports chic but feminine', neatly nailing the mood. Military great coats, oversized bombers, aviators and parkas, some with camouflage detailing or what looked like nets thrown over the top, made for perhaps the best dressed army in fashion history. More tender were ultra-luxe sweatshirts and gowns scattered with stars like the loveliest night sky, an ankle-length silk kilt in army green and fluted skirts that resembled the heads of upturned flowers.
This was a look that was as desirable as it was strong: though tempered by romance the woman who wears these clothes is likely to appear anything but passive. Laced white ankle boots with a stacked heel and more that were thigh high only added to the drama and even, in places, magnificence of it all.