When we heard the opening notes of the symphonic score to Hitchcock's The Birds we realised we weren't in for a typical Erdem show. King of so-sweet-it-hurts ladylike chic, the Canadian designer is synonymous with revved up girlishness characterised by sugary palettes and painterly florals. This time around things were about to get much, much darker.
Plotting a gothic course in sheer black chiffon and heavy boucle, Erdem added drama with ruffed collars and cuffs to curve hugging lace dresses. Dress cuts varied between 50’s fullness and tighter pencil shapes, while separates also featured - most notably the fluffy navy and burgundy striped matching sweater and skirt which cropped up midway through the collection.
But it was the black sheer fabric dominated the line. Layered over everything from a strapless pink feathered dress to a sensual lace slip, floor-sweeping silk chiffon added a sense of dark romance. Adding further intrigue, polka dots were bonded on to the black chiffon, bringing a quirky off-kilter feel to the polished looks. Embellishment elsewhere was intricate and striking. Applique beaded posies were amplified with long strands of feathers festooned across skirts and around necklines while layered paillettes were stitched together to create a floral-scapes, best viewed just like Monet’s lilies from afar.
Erdem also pitched us a strong erogenous zone, ensuring that the majority of his frocks revealed an inch at the waist line, covered only by the ever-presented sheer chiffon. For sure, there was still something uptight about Erdem’s woman – she’s not exactly the type to rock a bandage dress – but this season she was at her all-time sexiest.