Dries Van Noten Autumn Winter 2014: Op-Art Excellence

26 February 2014 by

@Grazia_Live: Zingy orange, yellow and magenta highlights - the finale

On the eve of the opening of a major exhibition of his work at Les Arts Decoratifs, Dries Van Noten today showed his latest collection in Paris' Hotel de Ville demonstrating, once again, his seamless ability to meld the haute and the humble, an artistic approach to decoration and print and sophisticated reference points none of which ever overpowers the woman who chooses to wear his clothes.

Among the key motifs this season was a lily, but there was nothing romantic about the designer's treatment of the elegiac flower. Prints of it in bright yellow and magenta were embellished with artificial blooms winding around the shoulder, part brooch, part sculpture. More lilies – this time hand-painted silver - were emblazoned on black dresses and tailoring.

Elsewhere there were Op-Art explorations of stripes and geometric motifs: spinning top striped, fluted skirts looked especially covetable.

Colour combinations stole theories from the colour wheel so that yellow was matched with navy and magenta with violet grey to pump the pigment. Orange was another highlight seen on a standout bomber and cool oversized clutch.

Finally, there was a utilitarian feel to heavy hardware fastenings on oversized, mannish coats and lace-up sleeves, deconstructed bikers in wool and a second bomber featuring geometric, down filled stitching, all of which emphasised this designer’s flair for elevating streetwear.


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