For Donna Karan, New York isn't simply a base, it's an endless and unrelenting source of inspiration. Celebrating her 30th anniversary with a collection entitled, 'The Art of New York', this season it was the perpetual motion of the polyglot city that provided the starting point for a risqué outing.
Taking pride of place on the FROW were Katie Holmes and Rita Ora, reflecting both the pulled together elegance and youthful sensuality of this evening's outing. A smokey, edgy atmosphere greeted us at the Wall Street venue as the show started out with a video montage of moving bodies swathed in billowing chiffon and strict tailoring.
The first couple of looks set the tone for proceedings: nightporter-esque ensembles with vinyl baker boy caps and sheer illusion bodysuits in tulle sans culottes, slashed down to the naval. Elsewhere sheer fabric panels featured on shirt backs and skirts with embellishment adding a further injection of luxe to both day and evening wear. Dresses cascaded to the floor with necklines which were deep enough to make a young suitor blush.
The palette focused on shades of black but we also had flashes of ochre, russet and claret bringing the jewel colours of fall to the runway. As ever with Donna's collections, drape and tailoring were strong with origami folds at jacket cinched waists and a host of striking coats- in particular a cognac shaded down filled duvet style. But it was the red carpet appropriate floorsweepers that really stole the show with silken bias cut gowns, devore detailing and hand embroidered organza numbers looking like serious Oscar contenders.