Pleats Please Christopher Kane! (Grazia_Live Instagram)
'Everyone does flowers but if I do them I don't want them to be like anyone else's' Christopher Kane said backstage at his show. And they weren't. Instead - and following a recent visit back to school in Scotland to see his art teacher - Kane looked to the type of botanical drawings which, in a perfect world, kids would pore over in biology class.
Leather petals were cut out of black tailoring or silk column dresses in fondant shades of apricot, parma violet and peppermint. Silk peeled away at shoulders and hems, gathered to the body with silver crocodile clips: a reference to dissection and the school lab again.
The words 'oxygen', 'petal' and 'flower' itself were printed on garments along with the blooms themselves - specifically carnations, buttercups and 'a weird orchid. I wasn't going to do roses. They've been done to death,' said Kane.
If the concept was brilliant, the execution was more remarkable still. The most perfect embroideries appeared across everything from sweat-shirting to lace. Hammered metal thread frayed at the cuffs and hems: jewelled blooms nestled in the glittering fluff.
Now in his second season in partnership with French luxury goods conglomerate Kering - owners of Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Gucci - Kane is well on his way to international recognition. He has in no way abandoned his art school roots, however, which is inspiring. 'If you don't do it yourself it's never quite how you want it to be,' Kane concluded. 'I'm really hands on. If I can't do it, no one can.'
There are very few designers working today who can do it like Christopher Kane can. His talent shines ever more brightly.
Watch the full show below...