Chalayan Autumn Winter 2014 Show Report: An Intergalactic 3D Journey!

28 February 2014 by

This morning Hussein Chalayan took us on a 3D journey through space- specifically his studio premises. The designer's starting point this season was to create a maquette (a scale model) of his work space, recreating walls in organza glass and wall textures. After photographing and abstracting his scale model, Chalayan's aim was to reduce the journey from one end of the space to the other, from A to Z. While this may sound highfalutin, such conceptual underpinnings are what makes Chalayan's work so absorbing and the resulting garments looked pretty great too.

Some of the best included a strapless red cocktail dress with an overlay of organza sliced above and grey sheer evening frocks with reflective, metallic splice panels at the chest. Also good looking was an unlikely exploration of nail art. 'I wanted to bring in a corporal element, something more bodily as well,' Chalayan explained backstage, 'so we created an installation of makeup boxes which we then photographed and turned into prints and then in turn into embroidery.' This translated into black fine fringed jackets and dresses interspersed with small squares of vibrant colour like a makeup artist's palette. As ever there was a hint of humour as Chalayan took it one step further using actual plastic nails, lined up in colour order as you'd expect to see in a salon, as rainbow shaded embellishment for gowns. 'I wanted to make it even more bodily,' he said, 'so the nails I thought were quite fun. You wouldn't know what they were immediately. The dots of colour are from how they were displayed in a book so I turned that into a pattern.'

In amongst the collection there were also plenty of looks that could slot right into your wardrobe without requiring too much care (a broken nail might take on a whole new meaning here). Draped dresses sliced at the waist, roll neck sweaters split at the clavicle and graphic knits in fuzzy yarns offered easy to work daytime style with an added touch of artistry.


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