The world's most upscale laundry bags made their way down the runway at Phoebe Philo's autumn show for Celine. Up close the cocooning coats, funnel necked tunics and A-line skirts split up one side to the thigh were clearly far from cheap and cheerful. Instead, and true to the ethos of this label, they were doubtless made of the most expensive weave money can buy.
This was a beautiful show, inspired, if the picture books left on seats were anything to go by, by Flemish Old Master portraiture and lightly cloudy blue skies.
The colours were some of the most delicate of the season - cream, ivory, rose and primrose yellow. The fabrics were light and subtly fluffy of the sort it would be tempting to stay home and cuddle oneself in. Talking of cuddling, sleeves were wrapped and loosely knotted around slender torsos: a soft and very human touch.
Philo's gentle influence has been seen all across other designers' catwalks for years now. True to her vision this was a discreet move forward more than a whimsical about turn: she understands her customer and is happy for her to build a wardrobe around her clothes rather than rethink her look on a six monthly basis.
The low slung and wide half belts at the back of voluminous coats are a signature by now as is the moulded circular sleeve and shift dress: the latter looked wonderful in dove grey flannel and with oversized curved pockets in which hands would always be warmed.