While the rest of the city's designers are referencing Calvin Klein's 90s archives, the label's current creative director Fransisco Costa is forging his very own path – one which harnesses the DNA of the label, but brings it smack into the fashion present. Colour is always in short supply at Calvin Klein shows and this season was no exception with predominantly black and white looks making way for only a hint of hue through embellishment.
One of the impressive ideas that Costa put forward for the season was a vivisection of garments making models look like they’d been attacked by a magician’s saw. Dresses, coats and tops were spliced into thick sections and held ephemerally in place with scant stitches. Several of these pieces were then embellished with fine fringing which draped over the fissures.
Calvin Klein Collection Spring Summer 2014 [Catwalking]
Elsewhere Costa appeared to be looking at internal structures and bringing them to the fore. What looked like multi-coloured piece cleaners or packing fabric was embroidered on to the outside of skirts while huge turn ups on sleeves and trousers revealed the internal.
Those trousers were a wonder to behold. Wide leg cargo pants, bleached white with deep, low slung fabric belts and calf high turn ups – while they might not be the most wearable pants we’ve ever seen, there’s no doubt that Costa wins points for innovation.
Nothing here was straightforward – there was no ‘throw on’ appeal. Instead these pieces were complex, layered and intricately constructed. Juxtaposing an old time, femininity with ladylike pleated skirts and a technically pioneering approach to fabric development and silhouette, Costa proved his worth in spades.