Couture Fashion Week: A La Versace!

06 July 2014 by

JLO was one of the celebrities on the FROW to inspect Donatella's take on mid century couture (@grazia_live)

'I wanted to concentrate on tailoring, on Fifties couture, but not as it was,' said Donatella Versace backstage before the Atelier Versace show. The mid-Twentieth century was this craft form's golden age - a time when the likes of Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga gave women the most perfectly worked and fitted big entrance gowns and suiting in fashion history.

It's safe to say that Donatella's take on this was indeed 'not as it was'. In her hands an overblown skirt in dusty rose duchesse satin was worn over nothing more bourgeois than a black corset embroidered with micro-sequins and fastened with gleaming gold metal straps. 'It's a ball gown a la Versace,' Donatella said.

The poker straight black wool skirt of a Le Smoking ensemble was equally far from conventional, split to the crotch to reveal a one-legged trouser - the other lithe limb was left bare - and a sky-high sandal with a spiked metal heel.

The unabashed celebration of rock star glamour this designer and the house she today presides over is well known. Even so, having J Lo front row is quite a coup. Perhaps less written about is the attention to structure, to showing a woman's body at its absolute best, that both Donatella - and her brother Gianni Versace before her - has always focussed on. This was very much in evidence throughout.

As for Versace signature chainmail: herself dressed in pin-sharp leggy white trouser suit with a vest crafted in that very material which she was only too happy to flash, Donatella said it was this time studded with the tiniest stones ever created. Liquid luxury at its most shiny, happy and - always and forever on this runway - fierce.


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