With two seasons of showing both his eponymous line here in NYC and helming Balenciaga in Paris under his belt, Alexander Wang is well into his groove. This evening's show was held in a huge warehouse in Brooklyn's Navy Yard, forcing editors to cross the bridge out of Manhattan. If ever a barometer of the power the young Wang wields was required, this was proof enough. Tellingly, the seats were packed to the rafters with the FROW sipping on hip flasks filled with whisky and pineapple juice.
As soon as the first looks came out, all grumbles of missed Saturday night dinner reservations were immediately forgotten. This collection, if not in a different league to his oeuvre thus far, certainly proved he has gained both increasing expertise and maturity from his time mining the Balenciaga archives.
Alexander Wang Autumn Winter 2014 [Getty]
Wang sent out a dizzying array of garments which drew inspiration from disparate sources. The first story centred on the gun jacket with woollen single-breasted styles embellished with artillery pockets across the chest recalling hunter's garb. Paired with these were over-the-knee riding boots modernised with the addition of a white rubber sole - immediate sell-outs.
We also had debonair silk shirts buttoned at the neck, leather collar dickeys, prep school knee shorts and page boy haircuts adding to the foppish, almost Bloomsbury set feel. Following this, Wang threw us a curveball with aerated knits and utilitarian oversized coats edged in neon zips. Indeed outerwear was the cornerstone of this collection with suede, shearling, puffers and oversized cagoules all taking pride of place. As the pièce de résistance the lights went down only for Wang to unveil a rotating catwalk complete with a dozen models dressed in luxurious leathers which appeared to have been spray-painted with stencils or laser-cut in a rainbow of striking shades, heat activated to add to the quota of technical genius on display. Impressive stuff and certainly worth the schlep.
-- Katherine Ormerod