Thea Bragazzi and Justin Thornton have created a brand in Preen with many visual signatures. Aside from their famous wrapped fabric bodycon dresses, we've come to expect idiosyncratic print mashups with oversized pixelation, tartan, florals and snake motifs across chiffon, cotton and jersey dresses and covetable separates. The fact that a large portion of the FROW was clad head to toe in Preen today is testament to the trade the pair are doing- and this seasons collection is unlikely to reverse their upward trajectory.
The starting point for today's collection the designers explained backstage was 1977, the year of Justin and Thea's two favourite films: Star Wars and Annie Hall respectively. As far as the Empire was concerned we saw Darth Vader stamped over silk bias cut dresses and cotton poplin shirts. Diane Keaton's iconic androgyny also made a strong showing with pleated high waisted trousers and masculine jackets inlaid with intarsia printed strips.
"Then we introduced a kind of ethnic feeling with some of the textiles inspired by Moroccan tiles," Justin explained. This provided the season's strongest motif and was realized in multiple colours across Devore dresses, highly reflective parkas and embellished sweaters. As the tile patterns were abstracted and twisted at times they appeared like a harlequin check, at others like an Erte monochromatic etching.
The palette was both dark and arresting with head to toe orange cutting through silvered black lurex and sludgy green. Similarly to last winter's line orangey red, white and black combinations were seen in dropped waist dresses but this time around perilously deep scoop backs ratcheted the sex appeal.
So were the pair disappointed to see George Lucas' masterpiece providing inspiration for Luke Skywalker and Yoda prints at Rodarte last week? 'Obviously we didn't know and when we saw it was too late to change' Justin said, 'but I do think it's interesting they went for the good characters only and we went for the bad. Who doesn't love a bad girl, right?' Good or bad sci-fi nerds are certainly in for treat come autumn/winter 2014.