After last season’s catwalk extravaganza which featured a life-size steam train, we were more than intrigued to see how on earth Marc Jacobs was going to follow up for Louis Vuitton’s S/S 2013 collection. Instead of grandiose props, this time around Jacobs plumped for an arresting visual spectacle created by the models themselves – with the help of four huge escalators, bien sur!
Obsessive symmetry was at the core of Jacobs’ outing – bringing to mind once again the Op Art movement of the 1960s. Chessboard squares were emblazoned across the first 11 exits – but in this show that actually totalled 22 looks as each model was accompanied by a twin. The ultimate manifestation of symmetry, ‘identical twin’ models – all with same hair colour, standing at the same height – travelled in step down the escalators on to the catwalk where we marvelled at the reflective twosomes.
As far as the matchy matchy get-ups were concerned, much like his mainline collection shown in New York Fashion Week, Jacobs brought sixties inspirations back on to the runway. Micro mini skirts, skirt suits, and monochromatic graphics dominate the show, though we did see the inclusion of both sunshine yellow and green as well as a pretty flower stem motif.
While the twin aspect gave a definite Stephen King vibe to proceedings, the individual looks were about easy breezy dressing. Also noteworthy were the accessories – Jacobs is a dab hand at changing the trajectory of design – his super pointy kitten heels with their 90 degree angles are sure to have a major influence on footwear next summer.