It was one of Milan Fashion Week's most anticipated shows this season, as the label welcomed the return of its original owner and creative director Jil Sander, following the departure of Raf Simons, who left the label following a hugely successful seven years.
The buzz at Via Beltrami before the Sander show Saturday was fever pitch in Milano, with fashion eds tweeting frantically with their predictions. The excitement was totally contagious, with statements like “This return will go down in history” from Australian Vogue on twitter!
The reactions from the fashion press have been really positive, and as it was one of MFW’s hottest show tickets, all the big dogs had tickets on the FROW, and lots to say about it! Tim Blanks from Style.com touched on how Jil Sander’s signature paired back, and ultra-chic look has gone global, which means with fashion’s biggest designers nailing it, she’s got to get it just right to stay on top, “She is, after all, coming off a three-year collaboration with Uniqlo, and her time spent in Tokyo seems to have helped motivate her current energetic reengagement with the world of high fashion. But fashion's axis has shifted, and now the Queen of Clean has serious competition, not least from the man who most recently occupied her place at her label. Viewed as an exercise in re-staking her claim, today's show made a worthy enough start”.
Meanwhile over at The Cut at New York magazine, Amy Larocca was perfectly pleased with Sander’s comeback collection “…it was pure Jil Sander in its clean minimalism, and it was incredibly strong. Her clients will undoubtedly be happy to have her back (not that they weren’t gobbling up her +J line at Uniqlo, but this is different.) Perfect navy coats and pants and burgundy shift dresses and starchy whites that make you feel silly for dressing any other way. That’s the thing about minimalists. They do make you wonder why you bother with anything else.”
And the Grazia team? Well we just love it. It reminds us of all our favourite almost school uniform-style elements which we snapped up at Uniqlo: Navy, burgundy and crisp whites but made runway worthy with perfect craftsmanship and super-lux accessories (rolled down leather boots and hardwear-free leather box-bags). The collection continues the trend for the new exaggerated silhouette, but achieves it with what look like staples we should all have – crisp white shirts, circle skirts and cotton smocks. A collection that looks so simple can only be done by a pro. Welcome back Jil!