It’s summer! Always the prettier, more digestible season of the fashion calendar, unless of course that is, you’re a designer like techno-knitter Craig Lawrence who never troubles himself too much with trifles like what would be a good outfit to keep you cool in hot weather or be an eye catching ensemble to wear to the races, or a June wedding, for example. Dear me no. We’ve followed Craig’s career since he burst out the doors of Central Saint Martins in a flurry of macramed pink and white ribbons with a first class honours degree and a job creating knitwear for enfant terrible of the era; Gareth Pugh.
Anyway, the past few seasons have seen Lawrence’s aesthetic muted somewhat, the devil has been in the detail rather than the grand, dramatic gesture. Then, this summer he was approached to take part in a retrospective show – with a look or two from all his collections – at the prestigious V&A Museum. The show itself was a triumph, dramatic, beautiful, and quite emotional, to see his strange and wondrous dresses in such stately surroundings. We hoped at the time that Craig would use this moment to take stock of some of his strengths as a designer and guess what? He’s come back this season with his strongest collection for ages and all the more dramatic for it.
Entirely in pale silver, clear and reflective Kyototex yarn, Craig’s Spring and Summer collection was inspired by phosphorescent plankton that glow in the ocean at night, plus sea, urchins, sponges and glowing jellyfish. There was drama aplenty, having incorporated optic fibres for the first time, which, according to Craig is ‘a range that re-defines day-to-night wear; dresses and separates that are subtly silver-metallic by day, but reflective at night when spot-lit or under flash photography.’
What’s that sound we hear? Oh it must be Lady Gaga on the phone now, wanting a glow in the dark jellyfish dress!