Who needs a new Creative Director? Christian Dior Autumn Winter 2012 Show Report

02 March 2012

Outside Christian Dior's show venue this afternoon it was all aggression: the ever increasing mob of street style photographers jostled to get photos of arrivals in a not very friendly way; policemen shouted at cars  to keep moving, and drivers beeeeeeeped their horns angrily.

Walking through the gates into the Dior's venue, the elegant Musee Rodin on the left bank, felt a bit like crossing a picket line. Once inside, all was calm, which was just right as Bill Gaytten, the designer handling the Christian Dior fashion message was in beatific form.

For what is his second full ready-to-wear collection for Dior he took his visual inspiration from Margot Fonteyn, one of the greatest ballerinas of all time. Almost every outfit was based on the ballerina silhouette that is fitted across the torso and flares out from the waist into gentle folds that swish and and come to rest just below the knee. Even the criss-cross front high pumps the models wore had squared off toes, just in case they felt like hopping onto pointe for a moment.

In what was a very elegant, grown-up and feminine show that also incorporated the classic Dior colours  of dove grey, and its statement full length evening frocks, Gaytten showed exactly what kind of fashion house Christian Dior really is; it made us think – does the house really need an edgy new creative director, when surely all women want from the house of Dior is incredibly chic clothes to wear for fairly formal functions in their social life. Or perhaps a new creative director would push the idea of what the modern socialite will look like in the future and set a new agenda.

Whatever, for next Autumn at least the Dior women will look perfectly lovely in a fitted bodice dress that flares out into a double skirt in metre upon metre of dove grey silk; or an oversize Herringbone printed fitted black jacket over a baby pink midi pleated skirt, or, if she is flamboyant kind of girl, why not try the floor sweeping bright blue plisse pleated gown, one gust of wind and she might just take off!

by Melanie Rickey in Paris


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