On a day of shows that were synonymous with extraordinary vision and unbridled creativity, Giles Deacon certainly did not disappoint. And whilst most of Londons' young design top brass focused on vibrant digital pattern play, state-of-the-art fabric layering and razor sharp silhouettes, Mr. Deacon applied his own special brand of genius to a collection full of historical references, dark romance and melancholic beauty that evoked a cast of characters escaping from a burning mansion due to an unexpected blaze during a Masked Ball, or perhaps phantoms wandering the halls of a great house after a terrible tragedy.
From mannish velvet tuxedos and frock coats, to girlish gowns and dramatic dresses, the collection was full of poetry and artistry that really played to Deacons' strengths as a spinner of sinister stories with a sharp eye for what his well heeled clients want to wear.
Many pieces were fashioned out of delicately singed satin encrusted with brown sugary crystals; others out of platinum brocade reminiscent of ghostly tapestries depicting lions and unicorns; whilst laser cut silks in the shape of tortured thorns were literally a sharp reminder of the ingenious modernity underlying the layers of narrative.
Giles has been known in the past to veer off into a world of quirk or comic strip camp but this poetic tour de force could well set him back on a path which he would be advised to stay on. And I certainly hope he does as I eagerly await next season.
by Andrew Holden