21 February 2012

London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012 Report: Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi has the ability to make the women who wear his clothes hearts beat faster, with his artist’s appreciation of a woman’s body. For AW 2012 Berardi took inspiration from the Rococo movement of the 18th Century, and the porcelain sculpture of the contemporary British artist Rachel Kneebone and sculptor Giacomo Serpotta. Clearly inspired by the elegance of their work, Berardi presented a collection of beautiful shapes and curves, sculpted to the body; the perfect balance between femininity, glamour and strength.

Shown in the Art Deco grandeur of Senate House, models braved a hair raising combination of vertiginous heels and several flights of stairs to show Berardi’s sleek and beautifully cut collection that had Editors gasping.

The designer’s signature precision tailoring was much in evidence, from oversized coats to fitted dresses with complex origami folds and pleats, to skirts with peplum details. This season was a little fiercer though with column dresses embellished with sequins which resembled chestplates, giving a futuristic warrior like feel.

Day wear favourites include an impeccably cut round shouldered pale pink coat over scarlet wide leg trousers, a series of perfect jackets, some in horsehair and leather and a dramatic red fit and flare dress.

For the cocktail hour, Berardi served up some exquisite white gowns (wedding dresses for the post modern woman methinks?), one sheer organza shirt ankle length sequinned look, another incredible laser cut origami style shirt dress and the final showstopper, a shimmering silver sequinned skirt with black peplum detail.

Bold and beautiful, but ultimately wearable … job done, Mr. Berardi.

By Charlie Miller


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