London Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2012 Show Report: Christopher Kane

20 February 2012

Oh there is so much to love about florals with attitude; a chalk striped leather skirt with a hefty leather tie cinching its paper bag waist; a down coat in a wood grain print that looks as fascinating as oil on water;  and a massive cable knit mohair sweater that does away with the need for a jacket altogether.

In every fashion city there is one designer that turns their face against the prevailing trend and sets an entirely new agenda. In London we have Christopher Kane. The whimsical florals from his summer collection are still reverberating as a key influence on the catwalks of New York and he has simply picked up his pastoral vision and cast a gothic shadow over it, which leaves the competition standing.

It didn’t seem possible to really want a pinstripe again until he carved them into his leather coat which he styled over a liquorice striped sweater. Gathered waists on paper bag top skirts and drawstring necklines on black tabard tops emphasised the simplicity of the silhouette. And the clashing of woodgrain print skirt under leopard print coat gave the most minimalist silhouette a richness that exuded both luxury and a don’t-mess-with-me urban chutzpah.

After using Lana Del Rey’s Video Games as a soundtrack last show, fashion people, at least, believe he was a key influence behind the song’s ubiquity. This season he swapped the moody ballad for pounding rock beat which made those organza dresses with their overblown rose prints and black leather trim look more mosh pit than meadow sweet.

There are at least 35 reasons why Christopher Kane is a hot fashion week ticket and every single one of them was on today’s runway.

by Paula Reed


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